Just on the horizon

On Sunday the 17th, Kel and I left The Saints in Guadeloupe and crossed the 20-mile channel to the island of Dominica (pronounced: do-me-knee-ka). Not to be confused with the Dominican Republic. As we arrived in the harbor of Portsmouth, local boats and guides greeted us and offered their services.  A group called PAYS (Portsmouth Association of Yacht Services) has developed a nonprofit model to support visiting yachts.  They provide moorings, host beach barbeques, organize inland tours, run night-time security, and can basically help you with anything you might need, all from a small one-room building with a short simple dingy dock.  Martin is taking care of us while here. He is a fit 51-year-old and has been with PAYS for 28 years.  In the last hurricane, his house collapsed on him, trapping him. He is grateful to be alive and full of life. Dominica is a different side of the Caribbean.

The island was struck by Maria's eyewall in 2017. Reports indicate that 90% of the buildings were destroyed and 100% of their agriculture was ruined. Dominica went on an independent path from Great Britain in 1978, so recovery was up to them and 2 years later it is still in full swing. Much still lies in ruins, as the 78,000 native Creole and African descendants work to recover. In many ways, it is still a 3rd world country.

Government Building in Rosseau

This is not an island of sophisticated resorts and million dollar getaways. The rich and famous frequent Martinique, just 20 miles to the south. However, it's an absolutely stunning place and considered to be the "nature lovers" island, so perfect for us: 7 dormant volcanoes with endless hikes, 365 rivers, diverse rainforest, countless waterfalls, and some of the best diving in the Caribbean. The locals here are proud and most are honorable, but poverty leads to crime, and this is a place to secure your belongings. We will keep Iolair within the security boundaries of PAYS, and take caution around the island.

Fort Shirley, PAYS moorings and Portsmouth in background

We needed to stretch out our legs after a long upwind sail, so we left for a hike around an old English fort.  Afterward, we joined around 50 international sailors at the weekly Sunday beach barbeque.  The rum punch was strong and the food was good. The weekly event helps to support the PAYS program.

Tuesday was a treat.  Our cruising friends, Brian and Shelly, invited us to join them for the day.  (Shelly gets credit for these portraits.) We traveled by van to a nearby township and visited the "Feed My Sheep" orphanage and shelter.

Mother with child at shelter

Brian and Shelly are hosting the Salty Dawg rendezvous here in Dominica in two weeks. and we are helping them with a 2-day service project at the shelter.  The children, residents, volunteers, and pastor at the shelter welcomed us with open arms.

New balls from visiting cruisers

We will construct a new student dorm room.  Hurricane Maria destroyed much of their shelter, and what's left of the interior rooms is termite infested and must be torn down. We went with Deborah, the pastor's daughter, to the local building supply center to order the needed materials. Brain and Shelly created a nonprofit foundation when they sold a family business and admirably they use it for just this type of thing. Kel and I have offered our labor and hope to have opportunities to volunteer with the local school children.

Feed My Sheep Orphange and Shelter

Some recent cruisers delivered balls, markers, school supplies, and musical instruments to the orphans living here. They still need help here. Although this is true in so many parts of the world, we are doing what we can while we're here.  If you want to see or do more, visit their webpage at  www.fmsdominica.org

300+ sheltered here during Maria, Dorm rooms will be on the top floor

Salty Dawgs preparing for the project

Check back in 2 days for a post on the natural side of this beautiful island.