A Changing Place - Glacier Bay

We left Hoonah a couple of days before our permit to enter Glacier Bay National Park. We wanted a decent day to cross Icy Strait to the park. As we left, we spotted a whale acting strangely in the water. It was a calf nursing, and mom was not being cooperative. The young whale was throwing a bit of a fit, thrashing around in the water. No ice in Icy Strait today, and after a few hours we radioed into park headquarters for permission to enter. Humpbacks love this area, and regulations require you to stay a mile from shore and maintain a slow speed. We didn't see any whales as we entered here but spent all our time dodging groups of sea otters. 

We anchored in Bartlett Cover near the park headquarters, checked out the lodge and museum, ate a meal at the restaurant, and took some nice walks with Jay. It rained.... again, but the forecast for our upcoming week in Glacier Bay looked perfect - sunny and 60 degrees. 

After our orientation at the ranger station, we were cleared to take Iolair into the park. Just 300 years ago, this entire area was under a 1000 foot glacier. When Vancouver sailed past this bay in the 1700s the glacier complex was well out into Icy Strait. Today you travel into the fjords 60 miles to see some of the remaining tidal glaciers. All the rock, land, and vegetation here is young. You can see a new landscape being formed. We stayed the first night in Blue Mouse Cove. Mountains covered in snow in every direction. A couple of other boats came into the cove as well. There are not many good anchorages in Glacier Bay. In the distance, I caught a glimpse of a wolf on the beach. Kelly spotted a black bear combing the tidal flats just around last light. Last light is around 11 PM and the first light is around 4 AM. It seems like it never really gets dark. All 3 of us knew we were in a special and unique place. 

With sun and warmth in the forecast, we left early the next morning to go all the way to the north edge of the park. The Margerie Glacier was our destination. This time of year, several of the famous fjords and glaciers in the park are closed to boats. One area is closed because the harbor seals use the ice as a nursery for their pups. We think it is great the park carefully protects the whales, seals, sealions, and birds that use this area to thrive. Glad to share the bay with so many wild things. The glacier was completely mind bending. Surrounded by high peaks and thousand-foot rock walls, it calves ice into the fjord. You can carefully navigate a boat right up to 1/4 mile from the glacier face. 

Beyond the ice, rock, and blue sky, the animals we shared today with completely changed us. Leaving Margerie, we stopped and watched a massive brown bear (grizzly) on a beach. Just us in the boat and the bear on the beach. I had taken pictures of an older brown bear in British Columbia; the fellow today was altogether different - massive and powerful. In Alaska, you know they are around. You need to be aware and respectful. We see bear paw prints and scatt every time we go to shore, but we always make sure we are heard and seen, and we respect their right to be there. They just don't like to be surprised. 

Just across from the bear's beach, we anchored in Russell Passage inside a small bight next to the island. Within a few hours we learned we would have to share our anchorage with humpbacks. These whales are about the same size as Iolair - 49 feet, 30,000 pounds. Humpbacks like to rest in the same spot. They were returning to Alaska from Hawaii. Something they do every year over a 50-75 year lifespan. Many of them knew the spot well. At least 4-5 whales surrounded us in every direction. For over an hour, we all relaxed in the anchorage - although sometimes a little too close to comfort.  They rolled around, slapped their flippers, and blew mist high into the air. We could even see their accordion pleats under their massive jaws. They bellow out the pleats as they scoop up fish. They were always aware of us and never bumped the boat or the anchor chain. We could tell they were enjoying a rest out of the current just a few hundred feet away in the passage. Eventually they continued up the passage. When you encounter truly wild animals, you are changed forever. This was an hour that will never be forgotten. It can never be taken away from us. Even Jay settled down after he realized there was nothing he could do but watch. 

We have a few more days in the park. Several warm sunny days before the next front brings more rain. Can't wait to see what they bring.