Red Bluff Inlet and a Full Circle is Complete

Our sunny weather was coming to an end, and we wanted to make it to Red Bluff Inlet....yet another 12 miles down the east side of Baranof. This is the quintessential Alaskan anchorage according to all the cruiser reviews and guide books. It does have everything. You wind in 4 miles through small islets. Waterfalls drop 100s of yards around you. We counted 13 falls dropping thousands of feet off the granite walls. 

The mountains are jagged and snow covered. At the head of the inlet a large river delta brings in the salmon, bears, eagles, and...us. We found the best anchor spot waiting for us, and so far...no neighbors. It is supposed to be rainy tomorrow, but we plan to stay put here for a few days. It is that nice, and we are still warm from our hot spring soak. 

We did have a few neighbors move in as the day went on. The mega-yachts have this spot on their circuit. They bring a different world to the wilderness - complete with hot tubs, movie theaters, and jet skis. One yacht came along called "Unbridled." At just under 200 feet, with a crew of 5, this yacht can be yours for one week of fun with 11 of your best friends for $300,000. The fishing boat that accompanies the yacht costs more than Iolair. But you know, we understand there are many ways to experience wild animals and places. It was a little hard to smile for their cameras when they pulled in and blocked 80% of our view of the grass flats and mountains. Sure, Iolair is small, but we were there first and they had the option to stay back a little ways with all the same views.  Kelly and I always joke about getting tattoos on our butt cheeks - I'd get a big "F," she'd get a big "U." This would have been the situation where we could have mooned the big boat and sent a clear message. We had a good laugh and were leaving anyway. 

We studied the wind and weather forecast and had already decided to cut our stay in Red Bluff short. An afternoon departure to cross the Chatham Strait looked ideal. Ten to twelve knots of wind on the beam with a slack tide means a great sailing day. With the sails up with left the cove. The wind was funneling up the strait. Without wind instruments, we guessed it was 15-20 knots. The short 4 foot waves were closely stacked and we pounded across the strait quickly. At times we saw over 8 knots of boat speed. Iolair loved it...we started to get cold. It was only 15 miles across and into Security Bay, and we sailed right into a flat, wind protected bay to spend the night. Felt good to sail, but Jay was feeling a little sea sick.

Always ready for an adventure

Some friends we made last year, Phil and Vicki on their NordHavn 35, were just around the corner in Petersburg. We were able to arrange meeting them in our next anchorage, Portage Bay. Vicki made excellent enchiladas and Phil gifted me some fine Alaskan Kolsch beer. (I was down to one beer with two remaining nights at anchor.) We really enjoyed an evening of friends, food, wine, Alaskan beer, superb Canadian whisky, and Kelly's fresh scones. Phil and Vicki are full of interesting stories, and Phil even let us try the seaweed he had plucked off the beach and was drying for a snack. These two combined their lives later in life and spend their time between Phil's land and primitive house north of La Paz in the Baha, Vicki's boat in SE Alaska, and Phil's house in Seldovia in Prince William Sound. It is always interesting to hear about the winding paths that lead people to happiness. We hope to always keep in touch with them. They are truly wonderful souls. 

This is how you do SE Alaska right!

Another 20 miles led us full circle back to Petersburg and we pulled into a slip. I don't mind saying we are all tired and ready for a rest. Three months of cool, wet weather and isolated wilderness wears you down. So it's perfect that Petersburg is wonderful and convenient, and it will be home base for 7 relaxing weeks.  Three of those weeks will include family guests. First, the kids will come for a week of glacier and whale watching, and a little later Scott and Jenn will join for two weeks of fishing and fun.

The past three months and 900 miles have been very exciting and unforgettable. Kelly and I are happy these places and experiences still exist. There is undeniable change happening here, and we feel fortunate to be seeing the BC coast and SE Alaska this way. Even with the changes, they represent one of the few wild temperate rainforest coastlines left in the world. 

Portage Bay