Alaskans

Alaskans are unique. We have met fascinating adventurers up here this season, often quiet and understated, and their confidence and spirit are often shaped by their adventures. 

"Flame" - a humpback that makes Juneau it's summer home every year.

On our way through the Wrangell Narrows we anchored in a small bight for the night. A fast looking fishing boat approached us slowly, they were from the Alaskan Department of Fish and Game. Some locals had placed a couple of crab pots in the bight, and they were checking licenses and making sure the pots were correctly labeled. Three young guys were onboard and were curious about our Maryland hailing port. They just stopped by to see if we had any questions and to hear about our travels. About 10 days later, they stopped for a visit while we were anchored in Tracey Arm Cove. Turns out the three of them live all season long on the boat. (April through October). They each have a bunk, eat what they catch, and patrol a large area of SE Alaska. They asked where we had been, and we told about our visit to Ford's Terror. Although they had lived here 20 years, no one had been into Ford's Terror. There is just so much to see here. Not a bad bachelor life for a young outdoors man. 

In Juneau, shortly after we tied up to the dock, another rugged small motor-sailor tied up next to us. Two couples aboard, they broke out the wine, snacks, and boiled up some prawns, and watched us cleaning up after 10 days out. Jay had to say hello. I asked to borrow a hose, and they asked some questions about our travels on Iolair. The couple that owned the boat, Jack and Molly Hodges, told us they had lived here their whole life. Just recently they moved from Juneau into a condo up the hill in Auke Bay. They still keep their boat in Juneau about 12 miles south and have been on the waitlist for a slip here for 6 years. Super friendly, Molly offered a ride to town if needed. Jack was a little quieter but full of smiles. The next day, Jack came by with a book he wanted us to have. He worked as a bush pilot and biologist for the Federal Fish and Wildlife Service. He had written the book about his experiences and adventures. With permission from the Russians, he was the first to fly a small seaplane into Siberia to conduct endangered bird population studies. He flew all over Alaska with biologists. Adding to that, Jack paddled a "waterbike" from Seattle to Juneau long before the "Race to Alaska” made it popular. Twenty years ago they bought their sailboat. They sailed from Juneau to the start of the Aleutian Islands...1500 miles. He described the Malaspina glacier up by Yakutat. "It's as large a Rhode Island."

A few days later, we went to their condo for some wine, smoked salmon spread, and stories. They gave us the lowdown on where we should go - hot springs, hikes, small little Alaskan communities off the well known trail. The ground floor of their 3 story condo is all garage - a 2 story high garage in the front half. Many people park their trailered fishing boats in these tall garages. In the Hodge's garage, we counted 6 kayaks, over 20 pairs of Xtra Tough water boots (the sneakers of Alaska), one basketball hoop, a trumpet, a trombone, and the aqua bike.  Upstairs on the back half of the of 2nd floor, there was a quest room. The 3rd floor was where they lived, complete with lots of windows looking over Auke Bay and the snow-covered mountains beyond. Turns out Molly and Jack have kids and grandkids in Seattle and Couer d’Alene Idaho. They are building a cabin on Couer d’Alene Lake in Idaho, so we hope to see them down south sometime. As we left, Molly invited Kelly to a theater production, and Jack suggested the two of us could do a hike instead. Molly also offered that we could borrow either one of their cars - the clean one or the dirty one.

I have to mention the pizza chef at Bocca's, a restaurant in downtown Juneau. We sat at the bar and watched him work on his woodfire creations. We've never had a better woodfire pizza...anywhere in the world. Not to mention the wine, Alaskan brew, Caesar salad, affogato, and citrus cake. Who would have guessed. Stealing a phrase from our cruising guide - Juneau is a town where you will see a fisher woman sitting at the bar, decked out in rubber clothes and boots, talking with a businessman in a suit and tie. 

The stormy skies lifted that evening, and we enjoyed a sunny, warm day on the boat. The area around Auke Bay is stunning. Rain followed the next day. We will hang tight here a while, finish some projects, and let summer catch up to us. Plus, Kel will not leave until we go back to Bocca's.