Rumbling Thunder

We spent a full day in Ford's Terror exploring the surroundings. During our stay here, we heard the snow of small avalanches and rock's falling high in the valleys above. In one area close to our anchorage, this was obviously a routine occurrence. The avalanches would come down and pile up close to the water's edge. We watched one slap of snow come off the rounded mountain top and roll over the snow field created by prior slides. The whole area is scoured and free of trees. They obviously clear the area every spring - bad place to try to grow if you are a fir tree.  You can see the avalanche activity beyond Iolair in this picture.

We loaded up in the dinghy and explored the other arm of the inlet. Jay had a great time in a big field of matted brown grass from the last growing season. Little shoots of this year's grass are barely visible. The bears will come in and start eating this in another month or so. The salmon well start arriving in June and this will be a different place altogether.  We watched a couple of seals feeding. Saw some old bear shit from last year....and really had the place all to ourselves in the spring. 

Besides the occasional thundering avalanche, the sound of waterfalling was continuous. Around every corner was another spectacular waterfall. Many of them falling for thousands of feet before arriving in the inlet. You could see a layer of lighter freshwater on top of the heavier salt water. 

We made it our of Ford's Terror the next day. Had to wait until 5 PM for the correct tide. It was a little easier see we had our entry tracks to follow backwards. Still a bit of a nail biter as we passed over an area with only 2 feet of water to spare. Once in Endicott Arm, we were greeted by icebergs and a cruise ship carrying 3000 happy vacations - we image many with drinks in the lounge listening to some jazzy crooner.  Glassy waters all around, we motored 3 hours back to the Anchorage in Tracy Arm's Cove. As fantastic as it was in Ford's Terror, it was a humbling. The rolling thunder avalanches and total isolation leave you feeling a bit helpless in a place that really doesn't belong to you. Our little wood burning stove keep us warm and Iolair kept us safe. It's not a feeling we have very often as humans - a humble, existence in a truly wild, untouched place. 

We have meet some fascinating adventurers up here this season, often quiet and understated, but their confidence and spirit has been shaped by their adventures.